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What to photograph in Snæfellsnes. by Kaspars Dzenis

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If you only have a day or two to spend, but would like to capture some of the best landscapes Iceland has to offer, Snæfellsnes peninsula should be on your priority list. Located just north of Reykjavik, this 100 kilometer long peninsula is packed with amazing landscapes, mountains, fjords, waterfalls, caves, charming little villages, sea cliffs, beaches and even a glacier. One might think, that it´s almost like Iceland within Iceland. Obviously each place is unique, but as a compressed version of Icelandic landscapes, Snæfellsnes is a perfect destination.

If driving from Reykjavik on the road 54, before reaching peninsula, there are few stops you should make. First a crater called Elduberg. To reach crater itself will take a rather long hike, and honestly I have not done it, but you can take a picture of the crater from a distance and with Snæfellsnes mountains in the background, it can serve as a rather interesting and dramatic scene. Just little further up the road from the crater is a row of basalt columns called Gerðuberg. Maybe not the most spectacular basalt structures in Iceland, but still worth the stop.

If you turn from road 54 north to 56, before starting the descend from the mountain, there is a small lake called Selvallavatn. There is a parking space just after crossing a small bridge. If you follow the small river nearby, you will reach a nice little waterfall. I enjoy stopping here every time i cross this road. There are no signs leading to the waterfall, so I suspect that it´s missed by a lot of tourists that are in the area. Also, area nearby is beautiful, with remains of dramatic volcanic activity.

When going downhill while on the road 56 you will reach crossroads with road 54. If you have time, I would suggest to turn east and follow the road to check out Álftafjörður. It´s a small fjord surrounded by high mountains and in my opinion is a great place to capture some great shots.

If you follow the road 56 it will lead you straight to Stykkishólmur. This lovely village has been recently made famous by being a shooting spot for a movie Secret Life of Walter Mitty. It also has a charming harbor surrounded by basalt formations from which you can see Westfjords and countless islets of Breiðafjörður.

You can skip Stykkishólmur and Álftafjörður altogether and turn west on road 54. Soon after you will reach a turn to Bjarnarhöfn. Farm where you can check out how they make that nasty fermented shark. Area itself is also interesting, where you can explore lava field named Berserkjahraun. I will not go into it, but there is a rather interesting mythical story behind it´s name.

Close by, surrounded by this lava flow, is a lake called Hraunsfjarðarvatn. Another place where you can just explore and be sure to find some interesting compositions for great landscape shots.

Next stop is probably one of the most famous spots in Iceland. Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss. Kirkjufell is a 463 meters high mountain, which is spectacular by itself, but I would argue that to get the most impact-full composition is to combine this mountain with the waterfall (Kirkjufellsfoss), which is right next to it. If you would randomly search pictures of Iceland, I´m absolutely sure, that this scene will come up.

I´m sure that there are few places that would be worth mentioning, but generally after leaving Kirkjufell, I hardly find myself stopping anywhere until I reach Hellisandur village. Right after leaving the village, Snæfellsness national park begins. Generally I would not say, that area of the park is more spectacular than rest of the peninsula, maybe even on the contrary. However, there are many interesting spots worth a look. With Snæfellsjökull glacier right on the edge, this park is basically a huge lava flow field with different types of beaches (rocky beaches, black sand beaches, pebble beaches and even golden sand beaches). First place I would like to specifically mention is Djúpalónsandur. Needless to say, this beach is surrounded by a lava flow field. Additionally, there are few places around that look really interesting. You can wonder around this beach or take a small hike to the nearby Dritvík. Less than 10 kilometers further are another place with very interesting rock formations on the beach. You can get a great picture of Lóndrangar by climbing up þúfubjarg cliffs.

Another 10 or so kilometers away are two small villages (Hellnar and Arnarstapi). Once again, area is full of great photographic opportunities of cliffs and rock formations on a rigged and lava scarred beaches. You can just hike all the way from Hellnar to Arnarstapi. Be sure to check out harbor in Arnarstapi. Look around and you can notice few interesting compositions with inclusion of nearby mountains (namely Stapafell).

Last place I would like to mention, before heading back, is Búðarhraun and Búðir church. You might have enaugh of seeing lava fields and rocky beaches, but this small black church Búðir is particualry photogenic. Depending on the weather and time of the year, you can get a really nice shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Little known valleys of the South by Kaspars Dzenis

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kvosir

      There are plenty of places to travel to when you first arrive in Iceland. South of Iceland, for example, gives you an opportunity to go around the so called ''Golden circle'', visit mighty waterfalls along the ringroad on your way to Skaftafell national park, see puffins (in the summer) in Ingólfshöfði, and enjoy the sunset by Jökulsárlón. Those are all ''must visit'' places. However, how about those people, who are coming back for more. Sure, you can revisit those places, especially if you´re a photographer and you´re trying to get a shot in that perfect lighting. But what if you´re looking to go somewhere new, to a place that has no road sign and no parking lot. In essence, you can just stop by any valley, get your lunch pack, lot´s of water, hike into the wilderness and i can guarantee you will find something spectacular. In this article, I want to tell you about one of my favorite places in South Iceland - Hvannadalur.

      This particular hiking path is located not far from one of the main travel destinations in Iceland - Jökulsárlón. If you continue east (around 12km) you will arrive at Hali country hotel and this farm is the birth place of one of the most beloved writers in Iceland, þórbergur þórðarson. It is not a coincidence that the name of this hiking path is Söguferð (Literary walk). þórbergur loved to take long walks and it is said, that this hiking path was one of his favorite. After reaching Hali you continue east along Steinafjall, which is on the left. In about 5 kilometers you will see a small house on the foothill called Sléttaleiti and after another kilometer a valley will open up on the left side. There you take the first dirt road into this valley and continue until you reach Steinasandir (Open sands with multiple rivers crossing it). If you have a 4x4 then crossing sands and rivers will not be difficult. Road is tough, but you can reache the very beginning of the path, where you can park your car and locate the first checkpoint. First part of the trail is not difficult and will take 1-2 hours to complete it. Trail is marked with small wooden poles, as well as signs describing the area. AFter finding first one, following the trail will be easy.

      Path will lead you up the hill, alongside small rivers with multiple waterfalls, caves and breathtaking landscapes. 

watfal

      At the end of the path is a place called Klukkugill (Bell Gully). Legend states that Irish monks threw their golden bells there when vikings first arrived.

klukk

      Klukkugill is where Literary walk ends, however, those who feel physically fit and have 4-5 extra hours can venture further down the valley, into Hvannadalur. Old sheep trail is located north of Klukkugill and leads down into the gully. From there you can hike up the stream. It´s a magical place and well worth the effort. 

hvanna

Walking inside a ''beautiful nothing'' by Kaspars Dzenis

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   Kálfafellsdalur is a long glacier valley located south east of Vatnajökull. Valley is scared with streams collectively called Miðvötn or Landkvísl and at the very end of the valley you can find steep glacier tongue called Brókarjökull (Breaches glacier). This is another place, where you can not find any signs and is rather difficult to hike in. However it´s a perfect place to disconnect from the outer world and marvel the ''beautiful nothingness'' of Icelandic nature.

vatnsdalur
kalfafellsdalurenter

   Valley is easily spotted from the ring road. Entrance is located near Kálfafellsstaður farm and it´s possible to drive inside the valley until Kaldá river. To venture further, there is no other way but to cross the river. I´ve not tried to do it with a car, and I would not recommend it, unless you have a monster truck.

streams

From there you can venture further inside the valley. Landscape changes rapidly, from rock covered sands with steep mountain slopes, to green meadows, full of birds and grazing reindeer.

reindeer

End of the valley splits into two, with glacier tongues at the end of each. Brókarjökull is a very steep glacier tongue that divides around the rock Brók. On the west side glacier forms lagoon. Nearby you can also find number of kettles - shallow ponds formed by retreating glacier. On the east side you can find a small valley called Vatnsdalur. There glacier literally hangs of the mountain. It´s a thrilling, yet a scary feeling to stand close to it. 

glaciermount

   It takes pretty much the whole day to explore the valley and it´s a demanding hike. But if you are looking for that feeling of peaceful desolation, it´s a perfect place to be in.  

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Is Iceland really a photographers paradise? by Kaspars Dzenis

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         ''It´s a photographers paradise''. You might have heard this before about Iceland. Well, i certainly have. But is it really? And f it is, what exactly it is people are referring to when they say that there is no place better to take a landscape photo than here, in Iceland.

          One thing is sure though. No way you can say that Iceland is undiscovered by photographers. Certainly, not in the last few years. Amount of photo tours and workshops have been rapidly increasing and there's a stream of amateur and professional photographers coming in all year around. However, this land has still many places that are untouched by men. Rugged and pristine is how i would describe landscapes i have encountered deep inside valleys and highlands. Part of me wants for it to stay this way. And the only way to accomplish it is by keeping people out. However, there is something magnetic about theses places that attract us. And when you see them, you want to share this beauty with the rest of the world. I think a compromise is in place here. To get to these places you must work hard. No roads or signs. It should stay a challenge.

        One must remember, Iceland is a giant volcano. Come to think of it, all land in the world came to existence through various volcanic processes, however, in Iceland you have a first row seat to experience formation of the land. Do not expect to see erupting volcanoes the minute you step on Iceland, but if you look closely you can see traces of volcanic activity everywhere - lava fields, craters, ridges and dykes. All of these places are great for photography. I will not go into details, but there are different types of volcano and they erupt in different ways and in different circumstances. All this adds to landscapes that are different from each other. So it does not matter, where you are going, you can expect that the landscape will look unique. 

       Iceland sits on a hot spot, so there´s always a chance for an eruption. At the moment we have an ongoing eruption in Bárðarbunga volcanic system and there´s no telling of when or where will be the next one. It´s not advised to get close to a volcano, but it sure as hell provide for a great picture. This hot spot is also to ''blame'' for geothermal activity underneath the earth that translates into many hot springs above the ground. That´s also the reason why we have hundreds of pools and hot springs where you can bathe after a long day of sightseeing or hiking. 

      Now, some people may argue that Iceland and Greenland should swap their names. It´s true, due to Gulf stream, Iceland is not as cold as you might have imagined. However, it´s still pretty far north, so a cold snap and a winter storm will make you reconsider the name change. It´s also cold enough here to form glaciers where land elevates over a kilometer. Many glaciers are accessible and serve as great objects to photograph.

      Lighting is everything to a photographer and this is what i think makes Iceland a ''paradise''. In the summer, when sky is not dark enough for stars to appear, you have this amazing light of constant twilight all night long. Sure, during the day, you might want to take a nap or do some post processing on you images as sun sits right above the head, but those night hours are amazing for photography. During the winter, on the other hand, you have ''golden hour'' lighting extended for several hours while the sun is up. Obviously, in the winter darkness rules over the day, but that means you can hunt for some lovely northern light scenes.  

      I guess it is true. Iceland offer so much to a photographer, to the point where one might call it a paradise. Uniqueness of landscapes, their shapes and forms, colors and lighting provided by the contrast between night and day. All that adds up to a must visit place.